Water-based cleansers, which we think of as foaming washes, on the other hand, clean skin by "rinsing away particles from the outermost layer of skin" and use a surfactant, Lily Talakoub, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist told Sunday Edit. "Water-soluble particles, such as dirt and pollution, emulsify in the lather of the surfactant and rinse off the skin," Talakoub explained, adding, "This, however, also rinses away the natural oils, so water-based cleansers are better for oily or acne prone skin types."
For those using to integrate both into their routine, Talakoub recommends starting with the oil-based cleanser, followed by the water-based cleanser. As Ellinor Quay Coyne, a dermatologist based in Washington, D.C., explained to Vox, "The oil-based cleanser in the double cleanse method is a great way to remove sebum (overproduced in acne) and makeup and sunscreen at the end of the day," and "You can then penetrate the pores more deeply with the water-based cleanser."